**4. Setting Up the Gem Bot:** 1. Unpack the Gem Bot with care and inspect for any shipping damage. Try not to lift at 3D-printed part locations. Make sure not to snag any wires, as these will need to be connected to the lower unit for the upper motor control and switch control. Try to lift from the upper front and back aluminum frame rails on the upper assembly. For the lower lift, I would recommend a two-person lift. Lift from the bottom and bend with your knees; make sure to communicate; and don't forget to make sure your drawers are shut and secure when lifting to avoid any damage. Maybe get the lower to the place where you wish your machine to be setup before installing the upper onto the lower. If your machine was shipped in two pieces, You will need to set the upper unit onto the lower unit and secure it with the supplied screws. There should be screw holes to line up with already in place on the lower unit. The Upper Unit lower rear rail should sit flush with the back edge of the base. The lower right rail of the upper should sit flush with the right side of the base.  2. Place the machine on a stable, level surface. I like to put mine on the floor. And pull up a nice desk chair while cutting. Also the touch screen wont drop too far if it is already on the ground. Planning to make a more robust case for the touch screen soon, and hopefully do some wireless controlls so that the touch screen is not tied to the machine. 2.2 Connect the upper connectors to the lower connectors. There should be a total of 7 connections. They should all be labeled. 1-Angle Control Motor, 2-Angle Set Switch, 3-X Motor Control, 4-Y Motor Control, 5-Index Motor Control, 6-X Switch, 7-Y Switch 2.3 Unpack the touch screen with care and make sure that it has its SD card with design files on it (llocated in the back). Plug the touch screen into its supplied plug. The cord for this is located on the right side of the machine, most likely near the front of the machine. The wheel sits on the left of the machine when facing forward. The wiring should be on the rear rails. 3. Connect the power cord to a suitable power outlet of 110v . For international machines, please use a power converter. rated for max. 1200w (that is what the smart surge protector is rated for). Everything is pretty low-wattage and low-voltage in the whole setup, though.  4. Turn on the power switch located on the right side of the machine. It is a blue circle. This is also your kill switch if you ever need to cut power to the machine quickly, say if you notice the stone is running into the wheel. Always try your best to power down during pauses in the cut function and remember to always make sure your index is set to 96 on power down so that when the machine powers back up it will load that position as being set at the 96th index. 4.2: Run a switch test and make sure your switches are functioning. Follow the on-screen instructions. Be careful not to break anything when pressing these switches. It is important to make it common practice to avoid collisions and cut function failures or home function failures. 5. Calibrating your machine:  Setting your 90-degree set screw so that it comes into contact with the angle-set switch when the stone or dop stick is at 90 degrees. Start by installing a dop stick with no stone on it into the chuck and tightening it down by hand. Enter the manual controls via the touch screen. Press 90° to set your angle control arm to 90°. Make sure not to make any X and Y movements during this process so that the x and y axes are easier to move by hand. Once these motors receive a button press to move in any direction, they will be charged up and will be more difficult to move by hand. The goal here is to set your dop stick flat on the master lap. Adjust your angle trigger/set screw carefully by hand. You want this screw head to come into contact with the switch as the dop stick is flat on the lap. This will be your 90 deg.  5.2: Make sure your grinding wheel spins up. Install your master lap, washer, and tighten the arbot bolt. This is reverse threaded; spin counter clockwise to tighten and clockwise to loosen. Sometimes you may need to push down on the lap or hold the lap in place while getting the nut nice and tight or while trying to get it loose. Make sure the knob on your motor controller is turned all the way counter clockwise. This sets the speed to zero. The controller for the main electric grinding motor is located on the left-most portion of the lower unit's top surface. It is rectangular with a digital readout and a few buttons that control power, rotation direction, and digital display settings. A knob to control speed. And a power switch to turn the motor on and off. Press the power switch to ensure power to the motor; you should hear this when it is powered on. Make sure your display is set to rpm output if that is what you desire to see. Slowly turn the speed control knob clockwise to the right to start spinning the wheel. You will find that this is nice and quiet and should be spinning very true with minimum to no wobble if everything is installed correctly and not spinning loosely. You will want the motor on low for checking your drip during the next step. You can also do a drip test with the wheel off and the electric motor off if you would like. I like to do this to check for leaks around the center drip pan hole and around the screws for mounting the drip pan to the metal base. Silicone has been added in these places, but it is always a good idea to keep an eye on these places, especially after cleaning. You should not run into leaks there, but if you are running a high drip rate, you may run into the drip pan filling up too much and put those seals to the test. I usually like to use my machine on the lowest possible drip. It is enough to remove the cut material from the lap, I believe.  6. Testing the Drip  In the lower drawer, there are two containers. The one on the left is for returning water from the drip pan, and the one on the right is the water reservoir for sending water up to the wheel. The drip motor is towards the back, between the two bins. There is a return line coming out of the back of the return bin. There should be a smaller line coming out of the lid of the sending bin. This line tip should be at the bottommost point of the sending bin to ensure water flow. To test this system, I usually leave the botton drawer open so I can peek behind it and make sure I am not leaking from the top. This is something that you should always try to be aware of. Make sure your water isn't getting where you want it. Ideally, all water should be returned to the return bin. If you are on the lowest drip setting, you should have hours of drip before you need a refill on your rez. The user is responsible for any water damage that may occur. It is the user's responsibility to make sure their machine does not drip where they do not want it to. We have done our best to secure any electronics away from any liquid.